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EUROCOMPULSION presents our Dodge, Chrysler, RAM and Jeep PCM Upgrade Service that unlocks the 2015+ PCMs for tuning.

Please note this service is required to tune your 2015+ Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/RAM (All FCA models, except the 2015+ Dodge Viper).

Once ordered, you can send either an original PCM or a spare. The spare has to be compatible PCM with your current vehicle. If it is currently unmarried, send both ECUs and we can clone the spare to your vehicle.

Please ensure you are sending in ONLY a PCM. No brackets, rubber isolators or other pieces should be included, these components may not be returned with your upgraded PCM.

After the PCM arrives at EC, our tuning engineers will upgrade the PCM and enable it for OBDII tuning. This is a one-time upgrade that will not affect other operations of the PCM. The factory tools will still work for service.

NOTE: While there is no hardware change, the back cover of the PCM does need to be removed.

We will upgrade PCMs as fast as we can, but initially, please allow – 3 business days (plus the time to ship the PCM) per PCM that you send in for the upgrade process to finish. (i.e. 2 PCMs = 3-6 business days.)


Once purchased please send your factory ECU to:

  • 10763 Sahoma Lake Road
  • Sapulpa, OK 74066

 Turn-around time is approx. 24hrs-72 business hrs. 


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EUROCOMPULSION is pleased to offer a comprehensive tuning solution for the JEEP WRANGLER JL 2.0L Turbo. Power up your JEEP with monster torque that sustains throughout the rpm range, and solid high end horsepower gains! All while improving efficiency, delivering smooth drivability, and increasing response.


Using rigorous R&D and countless hours of testing, we have created a very well rounded tune calibration that delivers on all fronts, and aims to take your Wrangler JL to new heights of power and enjoyment!



Our initial goal was to create a well rounded, all purpose map for the Wrangler JL that would encompass improved drivability all around, increase low end torque for performance and crawling/towing (and sustain it throughout the powerband), and still deliver some increased power across the board.

After a great deal of testing we were able to do just that. If you review our BUILD THREAD, you will see it was easy to generate the low end torque, however creating smooth delivery and power up top took more time and refinement. The results are excellent.



This mapping works for most all setups and situations.

  • Power and acceleration for when you want to go fast.
  • Added torque for crawling and towing, and enough to compensate for just about any size tires and wheels. 
  • Throttle response and delivery is improved greatly for speed or normal cruising. 
  • This tuning setup was tested in the ice and snow! In 4WD modes, etc. It was solid in all conditions.



Most of this tune testing on the road was performed with a 35" tire setup. Our average MPG hovers around 19mpg, that includes aggressive driving and cruising/everyday driving. AFRS are modest, hovering around 11:1 at WOT. That's a bit leaner than the factory, but still conservative.



Turbo pressures are very linear on this tune, peaking at 24psi up from 20-21psi from the factory, sustaining and then dropping back down to 20 near redline. This helps keep catalyst temps under control and allows for a slight bump in spark advance for power without compromising safety. 



Our mapping is made based on your individual software variants, location, fuel octane of choice, and personal modifications. These include:

  • Raised rev limiter (+250rpm)
  • Optimization for Hi Flow Catted Downpipes or other Downpipes
  • Exhaust systems
  • Intake Systems
  • Individual octane choice
  • Intercooling and charge system upgrades



Dyno testing was performed on a MY2020 Jeep Wrangler JL 2.0L Turbo, US spec. Dyno is a Dimsport HLS4WD system. Fuel used was 91 octane pump gas. Dyno corrections made in SAE.


Removal and installation of the Wrangler JL 2.0L ECU is very simple.


First, disconnect the battery terminal grounds (there are two that need to be disconnected). One uses a 13mm socket, loosen this nut and remove it (on the right). Then lift this battery terminal off its connection.

Loosen the main battery fastener with a 10mm socket, and remove battery cable.


Now, you can disconnect the ECU connecters. Do this gently, they are fragile plastic. Carefully lift them off the pins of the ECU and move aside.


There are four bolts holding in the ECU at each corner. Use a 10mm socket, loosen and remove each one.

NOTE: the top left hand side bolt has an ECU ground strap sandwiched between it and the ECU. Make sure this is reconnected when you re-install the ECU.

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