The Phase 3 tune brings the Fiat 500T / Abarth up to about 300 flywheel horsepower. This tune is specifically designed to give you all the power the car can handle without breaking things in the driveline. This tune requires a turbo upgrade, intercooler upgrade, and various other upgrades. We also strongly suggest a high performance camshaft and water injection.

    Before we go into how we get this much power, let’s discuss the transaxle. Torque breaks transaxles. Torque is what the transaxle feels, not horsepower. So the objective here was to raise the horsepower up to 300 without increasing the peak torque too much. (Note: this tune still has far more torque under the curve than Phase 2, but peak torque is in the same ballpark).

    The only effective way to make more horsepower without increasing torque is to move the power up higher in the rpm range. Horsepower is torque x engine rpm/5250 so with a fixed amount of torque, horsepower will continue to climb as rpm rises.  As an example, 250 lb/ft of torque at 4000rpm give you 190 horsepower. That same amount of torque at 6500rpm gives you 309! This is the principle reason that motorcycles are able to run huge amounts of horsepower through tiny gearboxes. It’s not unusual to see a motorcycle engine put out 170 horsepower, but only 75 ft/lbs of torque. The way they do that is by making that 170 horsepower up around 12,000rpm.

   Simply put, we are making all this power without breaking things by moving the power up higher in the rpm range.

    None of this means we sacrificed performance, we didn’t. More peak torque in the low or even in the mid-range would not have made the car any faster. Traction limitations prevent us from actually using more power until the car is moving pretty fast so more power down low would just mean more tire smoke and broken parts, not more acceleration.

     The tune has momentary peak boost of 29-30psi. That gets the car moving, but it drops to around 25 and stays there for a long time. Up at 6250rpm it still has 22 pounds of boost, which is about double what the factory tune has. The boost decrease from there is very shallow and even at 6800rpm it still has more horsepower than Phase 2 has at any rpm. The tune has a 7000rpm rev limiter, so you should shift a little before that. I have found 6800 to be a good shift point.

    The reason this tune needs an upgraded turbo is simple. The factory 1446 just runs out of breath trying to pump out 22psi at 6250 rpm. It has no problem doing that at 5000, or even 5500, but its efficiency just falls off too much when trying to put out that much pressure at that rpm. Exhaust back-pressure also skyrockets with those boost levels with the 1446. That hurts power and can cause knock.

    The performance camshaft is another key component. It’s not technically required for this tune, but without it I would expect results to fall somewhere about ½ way between Phase 2 and Phase 3 for most of the rpm range, and power would drop a lot above 6000rpm.

    This tune and all of the associated mods are expensive. It’s not for everybody. We offer Phase 0 and Phase 1 for the more casual owner. Phase 3 requires extra care from the owner, oil changes every 3000 miles, new plugs every other oil change, and air filter cleaning at every oil change. Premium fuel is critical, and some common sense should be applied when driving. For example if you don’t have water injection and it’s 110F in the shade, you may want to leave it out of sport more (assuming you have a combo like Phase 1/ Phase 3) or drive a little conservatively.

Below is a look at our Phase 3 tech and requirements. Please review them carefully.



1 comment

  • ap

    so the cell get turned off , is their anyway when getting this tune done leaving the cell , sensor activated if I have local emissions

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